Just 8 km from Poza Zgiełkiem lies one of the most important historical sites in Masuria – the former seat of the Lehndorff family, Steinort Palace in Sztynort. It is an exceptional place where over 700 years of history intertwine with extraordinary nature on the shores of Lake Mamry.
History – Home of One of East Prussia's Oldest Families
Steinort Palace was owned by the Lehndorff family for over 700 years, one of the most distinguished Prussian noble dynasties. The Baroque residence built in the 18th century was a centre of cultural life in East Prussia. During World War II, the palace became a meeting place for high-ranking officers, and Heinrich Himmler himself was a frequent guest. Heinrich von Lehndorff-Steinort, the then owner, actively participated in the assassination attempt on Hitler on 20 July 1944 and was executed for it. The history of this place bears witness to the courage and tragic fate of Prussian aristocracy.
Renovation and the Palace's New Life
After decades of neglect, the palace fell into ruin. In 2016, a Polish-German foundation took over management and began a thorough revitalisation. Today visitors can explore both the palace interiors and the beautiful park gardens that slope down to the waters of Lake Mamry. The venue regularly hosts exhibitions, outdoor cultural events, concerts and historical walks. Steinort Palace has become a symbol of Polish-German reconciliation and shared care for cultural heritage.
Nature Reserve and Heron Bay
Right next to the palace stretches the strict Sztynort nature reserve, protecting a primeval mixed forest and wild lakeshore. In the nearby Czapla Bay (czapla means grey heron in Polish), you can observe grey heron colonies and other water birds. The area is a paradise for birdwatching enthusiasts – in spring and summer you can spot white-tailed eagles, cranes and many rare migratory species. The nature trail around the reserve is about 6 km long and is excellently marked.
Heinrich von Lehndorff and the conspiracy
The last owner of Sztynort, Heinrich von Lehndorff-Steinort, is the figure who gives this place a significance far beyond its architecture. A young, well-connected aristocrat, he initially saw no reason to oppose the new regime. What changed him was direct contact with the crimes on the Eastern Front, which he witnessed as a liaison officer. He joined the circle of conspirators around Claus von Stauffenberg and Henning von Tresckow, and his palace – with Ribbentrop quartered in one wing and Himmler a frequent guest – became a place where talk of the plot went on literally a wall away from the Reich's most senior figures. After the failed attempt of 20 July 1944 Lehndorff was arrested, escaped, was recaptured and executed in September 1944. His wife Gottliebe and their four daughters were sent to camps; the family was separated for many months.
Decline after 1945 and a last-minute rescue
The palace's post-war history is a long account of neglect. It was taken over by a state farm, which turned the baroque interiors into stores and offices. Stucco was painted over, roofs leaked, and the furnishings dispersed without trace. After 1989 the building changed hands repeatedly and decayed faster still – at one point its collapse became a real prospect. The turning point came in 2009, when the then owner, the company running the neighbouring marina, transferred the palace free of charge to the Polish-German Foundation for the Protection of Cultural Monuments. Since then it has been progressively rescued with Polish and German funding – one of the more significant examples of joint stewardship of the heritage of former East Prussia.
The state of the restoration in 2026 – what you can see
This is the key practical point for anyone planning a visit: in 2026 the palace is still undergoing comprehensive restoration and its interiors are not open for general tourism. With the front elevation and the rebuilt balcony complete, work is under way on the roof and on conserving the baroque painted ceilings, funded in part by a grant from the German Bundestag. That does not mean there is no reason to come. The exterior and the surrounding park can be seen free of charge all year round, and the sight of a great baroque residence in scaffolding, slowly coming back to life, carries its own weight. Check the foundation's website before travelling – open days and guided tours are sometimes arranged in season, and they offer a rare chance to get inside.
The palace park and its old oaks
For many visitors the park around the palace is as interesting as the building itself – and in the present circumstances simply more accessible. Oaks several hundred years old grow here, planted by successive generations of Lehndorffs, with trunks three adults could not reach around. Among the old timber stand the ruins of a former chapel and a tea house, and the pattern of avenues still leads legibly down towards the water. The park is neglected in a way many people prefer to manicured grounds – it grows wild, it is quiet, and in autumn, when the oaks turn, it becomes exceptionally beautiful. An unhurried walk takes about an hour.
The marina, concerts and practical details
Right beside the palace lies one of the largest marinas in Masuria – in season a busy place with restaurants, equipment hire and hundreds of masts along the pontoons. The contrast between the silence of the overgrown park and the bustle of the harbour is one of those details that stays with you. In summer Sztynort also hosts concerts in the palace setting, worth checking when you fix your dates. It is 8 km from Poza Zgiełkiem, about twelve minutes by car or twenty-five by bicycle – one of the most enjoyable short cycle routes in our area, following a narrow road along the shore. Entry to the park is free; parking at the marina is charged in season.
Legends, curiosities and traces of a vanished world
A fair number of stories have grown up around Sztynort, some of them true. Ribbentrop, quartered in the palace, is said to have ordered several old oaks felled because they blocked his view – Lehndorff reportedly objected openly, which given the balance of power between them was no small thing. A particular oak in the park is still pointed out as the one the family said goodbye beneath before the arrest. The cellars were searched for Lehndorff treasure, much as Mamerki was searched for the Amber Room; nothing was found. The most interesting things, though, are not the legends but the small details that genuinely survived: fragments of baroque ceiling painting emerging from under layers of paint, the coat of arms carved above the entrance, the stove tiles. Those, not the stories, are what stay with you.
What else is worth seeing around Sztynort
Sztynort combines well with other places on the same side of the lake. Three kilometres from us lies Mamerki, with its intact bunker complex and a viewing tower from which the Sztynort peninsula is also visible. Węgorzewo, 7 km away, offers boat trips on Lake Mamry – an entirely different perspective on the palace and the whole peninsula. Part of the cycle route described in our guide Cycling in Węgorzewo also runs along this shore. If you want to make a full day of it, carry on to Giżycko and the Boyen Fortress and return along the far side of the lake. The whole loop is about 60 km and fits comfortably between breakfast and dinner.
Visitor Tip
Steinort Palace is open from May to October. We recommend the walk along the lakeside path – it takes about 45 minutes and offers breathtaking views. On-site parking is free. The palace and surroundings are beautiful [[in autumn and winter too|mazury-jesien-zima]]. The whole region is an [[East Prussian heritage trail|spuren-ostpreussens-wegorzewo]].
Photo: Wikimedia Commons / Sławomir Milejski / CC BY-SA
